Long ago, when the Chozhas ruled over the regions of Central Tamil Nadu, there lived near the present city of Tiruchi a wealthy merchant Thanakuthan and his wife Rathnavathi. Blessed with all the comforts required for life, their hearts brimmed with devotion for the Lord who presided over the land, across the wide Kaveri. They visited His temple every day and prayed for a peaceful life of devotion and service. The temple was none other than the magnificent shrine to Shiva, built on the crests of the RockFort at Tiruchi.
Their lives went on, as they lived for each other with the enormous bounty that God had blessed them with. Shiva, however, had a surprise for the unassuming couple and to their elation; they came to know that they were soon to become parents. “This is so so sweet”, exclaimed Thanakuthan, “our child is growing within you”. Blushing, Rathnavathi turned in the direction of the temple, and offered a silent prayer “Hey Mahesha, protect us and our child from all dangers”.
The nine months of pregnancy rolled by, with Rathnavathi receiving the best possible care from Thanakuthan. Gradually the day of the delivery drew near. “Perhaps you must call your mother dear, to help with the child birth. We can always do with some elderly advice, you know.” said the worried to-be father. The ever dutiful wife that she was, Rathnavathi answered “I will send for her right away.”
That night, the monsoon clouds burst open with all their fury and a strong wind kicked up a fine storm. The Kaveri ran wild, water splashing around, threatening to destroy the settlements on its banks. Thanakuthan and Rathnavathi remained indoors the whole day. There was not a single soul which braved the storm and went out into the open.
In the early hours of the morning, Thanakuthan woke to the murmers of his wife writhing in pain. The baby was coming out!!! Knowing that his mother-in-law would never make it in time, he rushed to her side and taking her arm, comforted her “Dear, can you hold on for a little longer, while I go out into the rain to look for some help?” Receiving a weak nod from her in answer, he ran out in search of help. Rathnavathi once again turned towards the temple and pleaded “I did ask you to protect us, you know?”
At that very moment, a knock sounded on the door and her mother walked in. “Amma”, she cried out in a mixture of pain and surprise. ”How did you make it so soon? I sent the word only yesterday.” Her mother gave her a caring glance, “I know when my daughter needs me. No one needs to remind me of that.” and settled down besides her, the perfect mid-wife aiding in pregnancy. With a final shriek of excruciating pain, Rathnavathi fainted.
When she woke up, she found herself besides a beautiful baby boy, kicking out his teeny-weeny legs. But her mother was nowhere to be seen. Assuming that she must have gone out, the lady waited, playing with the new born.
The rains had just let up when her husband walked in with a mid wife, pale with the fear that he could have been too late. His joy knew no bounds when he saw both the mother and child lying down, perfectly healthy. “Amma came early you know. She helped me through it all.” said Rathnavathi, looking down at the baby, with pride in her eyes.
A third knock sounded on the door just then. “That must be your Amma”, said Thanakuthan as he opened the door, and Rathnavathi’s mother strolled in. “So you gave birth already? Did it hurt much?” she asked, happy at the sight of her grandson sleeping besides her daughter.
“Amma, don’t kid. You were the one who helped me deliver the baby.” coaxed Rathnavathi.
“Are you hallucinating dear?”, asked her mom. “I know that labor pain can do strange things at times. I couldn’t come as soon as I got word because of the dratted storm. And here I am just now. How could I have delivered your child??” reasoned out her mother.
Perplexed, Thanakuthan looked at his wife, worried about her. And then, wonder of wonders, realization dawned upon Rathnavathi. At that moment Parameshwara appeared before them with Mattuvaarkuzhalammai at His side, seated majestically on His Nandi. He brimmed with the love of a mother. Rathnavathi was ecstatic. “Was it really you who came as my mother?” she exclaimed. “Just because I had asked you to protect my child? Oh Eshwara! How will I ever be able to thank you for your grace at the time of need? Oh Father of this creation, did u come as my Mother too (லோக தந்தையான ஈஸ்வரனே, நீ என் தாயும் ஆனாயோ)? Namah Shivaya Om, Namah Shivaya Om”.
Rathnavathi’s mother and Thanakuthan went down on their knees at the sight of Rishabhaarudar (He who sits astride a bull). They wondered at the extreme fortune of Rathnavathi to have been doctored by Vaidhyanathan himself. With a smile on His face, Shiva blessed the mother and child. And then in an eye-blink He was gone.
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| A wall painting at the temple giving the details of the descent of Thayumanavar |
The Thayumanavar (He who became a mother) temple is a famous shrine situated on the crests of the famous RockFort (Mala-kottai) in Tiruchirapalli. It is believed that the hillock itself was a piece of Mount Kailasa. Once when Adisesha and Vayu had a fight over their apparent superiority, they decided to settle it through a competition that would test their strengths. Adisesha offered, “Oh mighty Wind, I will cling on to the Maha Kailasa Mountain. If you are able to loosen my grip on the mountain I will submit to your superiority, else you must submit to mine. Is it a Deal?” Vayu pondered over it and finally agreed. Anantha gripped Kailasa, wrapping one coil after another of his long body around the sacred mountain. Vayu then got into the field, and summoning all his strength, blew full force across the face of Kailasa. Due to the intensity of the wind, the top of Kailasa chipped off and fell on to earth in three places. However, even after repeated tries with cyclones, tornadoes and gales, Adi Sesha did not even budge and Vayu gave up accepting the superiority of Anantha.
One of the tiny parts of Kailasa which fell off is believed to be the one that we see in Tiruchi today - the Rock Fort (The other two are Thirukkonamalai in SriLanka and Thiru Kalahasthi). The RockFort today houses the Ucchi Pillayar temple (maybe I will write a post on this one too!) at its crest and the Thayumanavar Kovil midway the top. The Thayumanavar shrine has two Prakara Veedhis (Roads for Circumambulation) – one which is located midway to the top of the mountain, called the Mel Veedhi (the upper street) and the other one running around the foothills, called the Keezh Veedhi (the lower street). Like Kailasa, it is also built at three levels, with the Manikka Vinayagar shrine at the foothill, the Thayumanavar Temple midway up and the Ucchi Pillayar temple at the peak. Hence it is often referred to as Dakshina Kailasa.
Legend has it that the Linga was worshiped by Trishiraasuran, the three-headed brother of Ravana. After many years of rigorous worship he was disappointed that Shiva had still not appeared. Furious at his failure, he started hacking off his heads one by one and fed them to the Sacrificial Fire. When he was about to chop off his last head, Shiva took pity and appeared before him. Consenting to his request Shiva agreed to stay at that very spot blessing the lands of the kingdom. He also returned Trishiran’s two other heads back to the Asura. Since he was worshiped by Trishiran, the presiding deity came to be known as Trishiranathar and the kshetra itself was named Tirisiraamalai. Over the years the name has evolved into Tiruchirapalli (Palli - town).
Ages later, when the emperors of the vast Chozha empire ruled from Uraiyur, Saarama Rishi had set up a small ashrama near Trishiranathar’s shrine, and offered his daily worship at the temple. He established a beautiful garden of Sevvanthi (Chrysanthamun indicum) flowers. He had specially obtained the flower from Nagaloka for use in his pooja. One day, a flower merchant who passed by the garden saw the beautiful flowers and decided to present them to the queen. He stole some of the flowers without Saarama’s approval and presented them to the queen. The queen fell in love with the flowers at once and demanded that she should be presented with more every day. To please the queen and obtain favours from her, the merchant stole the flowers from the garden at sunrise every morning. Saarama Rishi was greatly perplexed by the robbery. He was extremely disturbed about having obstacles in his Shiva Pooja, and appealed to the Chozha king to inquire into this matter. However the king being privy to the truth, remained aloof to Saarama’s petition. Extremely angry at the king’s lack of moral conduct, Saarama finally appealed to Shiva.
Taking pity upon his devotee and extremely disgusted at the king’s behavior, Shiva turned his burning sight onto the Chozha Capital Uraiyur. The whole of Uraiyur was tormented with sand-storms as a result of this. The king died in his palace, suffocated by the inescapable wrath of the swirling sands. The queen was however saved by a Brahmin while she was about to jump into the flowing Kaveri. Historians inform us that she bore a child who was later to become the much glorified KariKaala Chozhan.
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| Mattuvarkuzhali Sametha Shri Thayumanavar |
The presiding deity at the shrine is of course Thayumanavar, Trishiranaathar, Sevvanthinaathar, Siraamalainaathar, or Mathrubhutheshwarar, along with his consort Mattuvarkuzhalammai also known as Sugandha Koondhalaambigai. Parvathi is said to have incarnated as the daughter of Kaatyaayana Maharishi in accordance with the Rishi’s wishes. Since her hair (Kuzhal) was naturally fragrant with the smell of honey (Mattu)-filled blossoms, she was christened Mattuvarkuzhali. Eventually, she worshiped Shiva and once again took his hand in marriage. This marriage ceremony is celebrated every year in the month of Chithirai (April-May).
Though the temple itself dates back to more than two thousand years (The Agananooru sings in praise of the kshetra), the construction of the Malakottai was started under the patronage of one Viswanatha Nayakkar in the 16th century. It had served as a stronghold for the British during the Franco-British wars in the 18th Century. In commemoration of the victory against the French, an embossed picture depicting the Fort still hangs in the Westminster Abbey in England.
It's a matter of wonder that, when viewed from the east, the mountain appears like Ganesha. When viewed from the south, it appears like a seated bull, and takes the appearance of a lion when seen from the north. When looking down from the entrance doors of the Ucchi Pillayar shrine, the steps leading up and the mountain appear like the trunk of an elephant. The mountain is 273 ft above sea level at its highest point which can be reached upon climbing 417 steps.
It's a matter of wonder that, when viewed from the east, the mountain appears like Ganesha. When viewed from the south, it appears like a seated bull, and takes the appearance of a lion when seen from the north. When looking down from the entrance doors of the Ucchi Pillayar shrine, the steps leading up and the mountain appear like the trunk of an elephant. The mountain is 273 ft above sea level at its highest point which can be reached upon climbing 417 steps.
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| Rockfort, Thayumanavar Temple and Ucchi Pillaiyar Kovil |
At the foothills is a shrine dedicated to Manikka Vinayagar. As we slowly make our way up the hillock, we pass by various other shrines and mandapas or halls. Some of the important ones are the Sahasralinga Mandapa\: that literally houses a thousand Lingas, the sixteen pillared hall which once served as a watchtower for the British, and the Hundred Pillared Hall or the Nootrukkaal Mandapam. Every Chithirai month, in a special utsavam known as ChettiPenn Maruthuvam, the miraculous labour of Rathnavathi is celebrated on a marble dais located in the center of the Nootrukkaal Mandapam. Thayumanavar and Rathnavathi are first seated on the dais, which is decked up for the occasion. Drapes are then drawn around them amidst the chanting of hymns praising the motherly-nature of Shiva. Minutes later, the drapes are thrown open to show Rathnavathi with a baby in her arms. Lamps are waved before the Lord and Rathnavathi, as many musical instruments belt out auspicious notes. Thousands come, from near and far, to witness this re-enactment of Shiva’s play, and the Nootrukkaal Mandapam is found to be overflowing with zealous devotees. During this utsavam a special medicine containing dried ginger (Sukku) and Jaggery, is made at the temple, and is distributed as prasadam to the congregated devotees. The medicine is favored by many pregnant women in the surrounding areas, for it is believed to help in an easy and comfortable birth process.
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| ChettiPenn Maruthuvam |
After climbing past several Mandapas, and about 200 steps, we reach the core of the Thayumanavar temple. In the central shrine, Shiva gives darshan as a gigantic Linga, one of the biggest in Tamil Nadu. A fascinating fact is that in this temple, the Dwajastambha (flag-staff) is not in front of the Linga, but behind it. It is believed that the Linga originally faced the Dwajastambha, but when Shiva turned towards Uraiyur to punish the Chozha king for his injustice, the Linga ended up facing the other way. Even today, during poojas, all the instruments are played, and the Thevaram is recited at the back (or is it the front?) of the shrine. The main entrance-way to the temple also faces the back of the shrine.
In yet another deviation from a standard Shivaalaya, Nandi is prominently missing between the Dwajastambha and the sanctum. In Tiruchi, the hillock itself is considered to be Nandi. Instead of Nandi, there is, however, the sculpture of a short-stout person person blowing into an ornate conch. He is Sanganaathar, the Shivagana who heralds the arrival of Shiva's procession by blowing into the conch. While no Nandi faces the presiding deity in the temple, in a fitting tribute to the huge Linga, an equally gigantic Nandi is housed in a temple at the foot hills. This temple is often referred to as Nandi Kovil by the locals
Thayumanavar is offered formal worship six times everyday, in accordance with the tenets of the Kaameeka Agama. He is also worshiped by the Sun on the 23rd, 24th and 25th days of Panguni when the sun’s rays shine onto the Linga. The temple also has a small gold-covered vimana right above the Tayumanavar shrine.
In yet another deviation from a standard Shivaalaya, Nandi is prominently missing between the Dwajastambha and the sanctum. In Tiruchi, the hillock itself is considered to be Nandi. Instead of Nandi, there is, however, the sculpture of a short-stout person person blowing into an ornate conch. He is Sanganaathar, the Shivagana who heralds the arrival of Shiva's procession by blowing into the conch. While no Nandi faces the presiding deity in the temple, in a fitting tribute to the huge Linga, an equally gigantic Nandi is housed in a temple at the foot hills. This temple is often referred to as Nandi Kovil by the locals
Thayumanavar is offered formal worship six times everyday, in accordance with the tenets of the Kaameeka Agama. He is also worshiped by the Sun on the 23rd, 24th and 25th days of Panguni when the sun’s rays shine onto the Linga. The temple also has a small gold-covered vimana right above the Tayumanavar shrine.
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| Thayumanava Swamy Vimanam |
Mattuvarkuzhali is housed in a separate shrine facing west. Facing Her is the shrine of Pathala Iyyannar who resides in a hall under the ground. People usually worship Him before going to worship Devi. A beautiful wooden Mahalakshmi is also housed within the temple precincts. People worship her with milk and lotuses with prayers for wealth and prosperity. She is especially propitiated with SriSukta homa on all Fridays. Muthukkumaraswami is housed in yet another separate shrine, and has been celebrated by Arunagirinathar in his Thiruppugazh
In the Navagraha Mandapa, in a very rare occurrence, all the Navagrahas are shown to be facing Surya, who is seen to be with his wives - Usha and Chaya. In yet another unique occurrence, in the DakshinaMoorthi shrine, in addition to the four Sanakadi Munis usually found at His feet, there are also present Sivayogamamuni, Patanjali, Vyagrapadar, and Thirumoolar. Here Dakshinamoorthi is shown to be seated on a mat of Dharba grass. It is believed that Shiva himself appeared in the form of Dakshinamoorthi to teach the secrets to grammar to the famous Tamil poet Thayumanava Swamy.
In the Navagraha Mandapa, in a very rare occurrence, all the Navagrahas are shown to be facing Surya, who is seen to be with his wives - Usha and Chaya. In yet another unique occurrence, in the DakshinaMoorthi shrine, in addition to the four Sanakadi Munis usually found at His feet, there are also present Sivayogamamuni, Patanjali, Vyagrapadar, and Thirumoolar. Here Dakshinamoorthi is shown to be seated on a mat of Dharba grass. It is believed that Shiva himself appeared in the form of Dakshinamoorthi to teach the secrets to grammar to the famous Tamil poet Thayumanava Swamy.
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| Dakshinamoorthi and his eight disciples |
The temple also houses the GangalaMoorthi of Shiva, which is one among the 64 Maheshwara Moorthams (forms of Shiva). He is shown to be bearing the fury of Ganga as She descended from the heavens - a very beautiful piece of work indeed. There are also some remarkable pieces of architecture in the temple like chain-links carved in stone and balls that rotate within the mouths of lions, and so on. Many people also believe that somewhere in the upper reaches of the RockFort are the preserved footprints of Vibheeshana (He was involved with the SriRangam temple as well as the Ucchi Pillayar temple).
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| An aerial view of the Thayumanavar temple |
Expecting mothers, their husbands, and relatives flock to the temple to pray for a safe pregnancy, and the birth of a healthy child. When their wishes are granted, the couples return to the temple and offer whole stalks of bananas to the deity to thank Him for his protection during pregnancy. Just like a banana tree never perishes, and flourishes one generation after the other, the offering of these bananas are symbolic of prayers for an unbroken lineage. Women also worship Thayumanavar with ghee and eat it for 48 days to be blessed with a child. Many devotees also circumambulate the hill on full-moon nights.
The temple follows two codes of worship called the Kaaranam and Kaamekam Aagamaas. The main festival is in Chithirai, which is held for 10 days. On one of the days of the Chithirai Brahmotsavam, the processional icons of Saarama Munivar and Naagakanyas are brought to the central shrine and a grand ritual worship is offered with Sevvanthi flowers, reminiscent of Saarama's initial worship of Trishiranaathar. Apart from this, the city of Tiruchi witnesses a float festival in Panguni (March-April). Mattuvarkuzhali has Her own utsavams during Aadi Pooram and Navaratri. Besides these, the temple also celebrates Mahashivarathri, Makara Sankranthi, and Thirukkarthigai on a grand scale.
The Thayumanavar temple is the 6th kshetra on the southern banks of the Kaveri to be praised in the Thevaram, and hence it is also a Paadal Petra Thalam. A place worth the visit, it is located bang in the center of Tiruchi and is pretty hard to miss out. A temple where every expecting mother must pray at, seeking a safe delivery, its story beautifully bringing out the tender-hearted nature of the Supreme Being who came running to help an devotee-in-pain, just like any mother would have done.
The Thayumanavar temple is the 6th kshetra on the southern banks of the Kaveri to be praised in the Thevaram, and hence it is also a Paadal Petra Thalam. A place worth the visit, it is located bang in the center of Tiruchi and is pretty hard to miss out. A temple where every expecting mother must pray at, seeking a safe delivery, its story beautifully bringing out the tender-hearted nature of the Supreme Being who came running to help an devotee-in-pain, just like any mother would have done.
हे शंकर स्मरहर प्रमतादी नाथ
मन्नाथ ! शाम्भ ! शशिचूड ! हर ! त्रिशूलिन |
शम्भो ! सुखप्रसवकृत ! भव ! दयालो !
श्री मातृभूत शिव पालयमां नमस्ते ||
"Oh Shankara, I think of you, Oh Primordial One.
My Lord, Shaambha, The wearer of the crescent. Victory to you, bearer of the Trishoola!
Shambho, Bless me with a painless childbirth. Oh gracious one, full of compassion.
I bow to you Shiva, who is also Mathrubhutheshwara. Bless me oh Lord"
- Shri Govinda Damodhara Swamigal
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