He became my Mum, Tiruchirapalli

Long ago, when the Chozhas ruled over the regions of Central Tamil Nadu, there lived near the present city of Tiruchi a wealthy merchant Thanakuthan and his wife Rathnavathi.  Blessed with all the comforts required for life, their hearts brimmed with devotion for the Lord who presided over the land, across the wide Kaveri. They visited His temple every day and prayed for a peaceful life of devotion and service. The temple was none other than the magnificent shrine to Shiva, built on the crests of the RockFort at Tiruchi.

Their lives went on, as they lived for each other with the enormous bounty that God had blessed them with. Shiva, however, had a surprise for the unassuming couple and to their elation; they came to know that they were soon to become parents. “This is so so sweet”, exclaimed Thanakuthan, “our child is growing within you”. Blushing, Rathnavathi turned in the direction of the temple, and offered a silent prayer “Hey Mahesha, protect us and our child from all dangers”. 

The nine months of pregnancy rolled by, with Rathnavathi receiving the best possible care from Thanakuthan. Gradually the day of the delivery drew near. “Perhaps you must call your mother dear, to help with the child birth. We can always do with some elderly advice, you know.” said the worried to-be father. The ever dutiful wife that she was, Rathnavathi answered “I will send for her right away.”

That night, the monsoon clouds burst open with all their fury and a strong wind kicked up a fine storm. The Kaveri ran wild, water splashing around, threatening to destroy the settlements on its banks. Thanakuthan and Rathnavathi remained indoors the whole day. There was not a single soul which braved the storm and went out into the open.

In the early hours of the morning, Thanakuthan woke to the murmers of his wife writhing in pain. The baby was coming out!!! Knowing that his mother-in-law would never make it in time, he rushed to her side and taking her arm, comforted her “Dear, can you hold on for a little longer, while I go out into the rain to look for some help?” Receiving a weak nod from her in answer, he ran out in search of help. Rathnavathi once again turned towards the temple and pleaded “I did ask you to protect us, you know?”

At that very moment, a knock sounded on the door and her mother walked in. “Amma”, she cried out in a mixture of pain and surprise. ”How did you make it so soon? I sent the word only yesterday.” Her mother gave her a caring glance, “I know when my daughter needs me. No one needs to remind me of that.” and settled down besides her, the perfect mid-wife aiding in pregnancy. With a final shriek of excruciating pain, Rathnavathi fainted.

When she woke up, she found herself besides a beautiful baby boy, kicking out his teeny-weeny legs. But her mother was nowhere to be seen. Assuming that she must have gone out, the lady waited, playing with the new born. 

The rains had just let up when her husband walked in with a mid wife, pale with the fear that he could have been too late. His joy knew no bounds when he saw both the mother and child lying down, perfectly healthy. “Amma came early you know. She helped me through it all.” said Rathnavathi, looking down at the baby, with pride in her eyes.

A third knock sounded on the door just then. “That must be your Amma”, said Thanakuthan as he opened the door, and Rathnavathi’s mother strolled in. “So you gave birth already? Did it hurt much?” she asked, happy at the sight of her grandson sleeping besides her daughter.

“Amma, don’t kid. You were the one who helped me deliver the baby.” coaxed Rathnavathi.

“Are you hallucinating dear?”, asked her mom. “I know that labor pain can do strange things at times. I couldn’t come as soon as I got word because of the dratted storm. And here I am just now. How could I have delivered your child??” reasoned out her mother.

Perplexed, Thanakuthan looked at his wife, worried about her. And then, wonder of wonders, realization dawned upon Rathnavathi. At that moment Parameshwara appeared before them with Mattuvaarkuzhalammai at His side, seated majestically on His Nandi. He brimmed with the love of a mother. Rathnavathi was ecstatic. “Was it really you who came as my mother?” she exclaimed. “Just because I had asked you to protect my child? Oh Eshwara! How will I ever be able to thank you for your grace at the time of need? Oh Father of this creation, did u come as my Mother too (லோக தந்தையான ஈஸ்வரனே, நீ என் தாயும் ஆனாயோ)? Namah Shivaya Om, Namah Shivaya Om”.

Rathnavathi’s mother and Thanakuthan went down on their knees at the sight of Rishabhaarudar (He who sits astride a bull). They wondered at the extreme fortune of Rathnavathi to have been doctored by Vaidhyanathan himself. With a smile on His face, Shiva blessed the mother and child. And then in an eye-blink He was gone.

A wall painting at the temple giving the details of the descent of Thayumanavar

The Thayumanavar (He who became a mother) temple is a famous shrine situated on the crests of the famous RockFort (Mala-kottai) in Tiruchirapalli. It is believed that the hillock itself was a piece of Mount Kailasa. Once when Adisesha and Vayu had a fight over their apparent superiority, they decided to settle it through a competition that would test their strengths. Adisesha offered, “Oh mighty Wind, I will cling on to the Maha Kailasa Mountain. If you are able to loosen my grip on the mountain I will submit to your superiority, else you must submit to mine. Is it a Deal?” Vayu pondered over it and finally agreed. Anantha gripped Kailasa, wrapping one coil after another of his long body around the sacred mountain. Vayu then got into the field, and summoning all his strength, blew full force across the face of Kailasa. Due to the intensity of the wind, the top of Kailasa chipped off and fell on to earth in three places. However, even after repeated tries with cyclones, tornadoes and gales, Adi Sesha did not even budge and Vayu gave up accepting the superiority of Anantha.

One of the tiny parts of Kailasa which fell off is believed to be the one that we see in Tiruchi today - the Rock Fort (The other two are Thirukkonamalai in SriLanka and Thiru Kalahasthi). The RockFort today houses the Ucchi Pillayar temple (maybe I will write a post on this one too!) at its crest and the Thayumanavar Kovil midway the top. The Thayumanavar shrine has two Prakara Veedhis (Roads for Circumambulation) – one which is located midway to the top of the mountain, called the Mel Veedhi (the upper street) and the other one running around the foothills, called the Keezh Veedhi (the lower street). Like Kailasa, it is also built at three levels, with the Manikka Vinayagar shrine at the foothill, the Thayumanavar Temple midway up and the Ucchi Pillayar temple at the peak. Hence it is often referred to as Dakshina Kailasa.

Legend has it that the Linga was worshiped by Trishiraasuran, the three-headed brother of Ravana. After many years of rigorous worship he was disappointed that Shiva had still not appeared. Furious at his failure, he started hacking off his heads one by one and fed them to the Sacrificial Fire. When he was about to chop off his last head, Shiva took pity and appeared before him. Consenting to his request Shiva agreed to stay at that very spot blessing the lands of the kingdom. He also returned Trishiran’s two other heads back to the Asura. Since he was worshiped by Trishiran, the presiding deity came to be known as Trishiranathar and the kshetra itself was named Tirisiraamalai. Over the years the name has evolved into Tiruchirapalli (Palli - town).

Ages later, when the emperors of the vast Chozha empire ruled from Uraiyur, Saarama Rishi had set up a small ashrama near Trishiranathar’s shrine, and offered his daily worship at the temple. He established a beautiful garden of Sevvanthi (Chrysanthamun indicum) flowers. He had specially obtained the flower from Nagaloka for use in his pooja. One day, a flower merchant who passed by the garden saw the beautiful flowers and decided to present them to the queen. He stole some of the flowers without Saarama’s approval and presented them to the queen. The queen fell in love with the flowers at once and demanded that she should be presented with more every day. To please the queen and obtain favours from her, the merchant stole the flowers from the garden at sunrise every morning. Saarama Rishi was greatly perplexed by the robbery. He was extremely disturbed about having obstacles in his Shiva Pooja, and appealed to the Chozha king to inquire into this matter. However the king being privy to the truth, remained aloof to Saarama’s petition. Extremely angry at the king’s lack of moral conduct, Saarama finally appealed to Shiva.

Taking pity upon his devotee and extremely disgusted at the king’s behavior, Shiva turned his burning sight onto the Chozha Capital Uraiyur. The whole of Uraiyur was tormented with sand-storms as a result of this. The king died in his palace, suffocated by the inescapable wrath of the swirling sands. The queen was however saved by a Brahmin while she was about to jump into the flowing Kaveri. Historians inform us that she bore a child who was later to become the much glorified KariKaala Chozhan.

Mattuvarkuzhali Sametha Shri Thayumanavar

The presiding deity at the shrine is of course Thayumanavar, Trishiranaathar, Sevvanthinaathar, Siraamalainaathar, or Mathrubhutheshwarar, along with his consort Mattuvarkuzhalammai also known as Sugandha Koondhalaambigai. Parvathi is said to have incarnated as the daughter of Kaatyaayana Maharishi in accordance with the Rishi’s wishes. Since her hair (Kuzhal) was naturally fragrant with the smell of honey (Mattu)-filled blossoms, she was christened Mattuvarkuzhali. Eventually, she worshiped Shiva and once again took his hand in marriage. This marriage ceremony is celebrated every year in the month of Chithirai (April-May). The sthala Vriksha is Vilva and there are a number of theerthas including the Kaveri, Sivaganga theertham, Nadrudaiyan theertham, and Theeyathillan theertham.

Though the temple itself dates back to more than two thousand years (The Agananooru sings in praise of the kshetra), the construction of the Malakottai was started under the patronage of one Viswanatha Nayakkar in the 16^th century. It had served as a stronghold for the British during the Franco-British wars in the 18^th Century. In commemoration of the victory against the French, an embossed picture depicting the Fort still hangs in the Westminster Abbey in England. 

It's a matter of wonder that, when viewed from the east, the mountain appears like Ganesha. When viewed from the south, it appears like a seated bull, and takes the appearance of a lion when seen from the north. When looking down from the entrance doors of the Ucchi Pillayar shrine, the steps leading up and the mountain appear like the trunk of an elephant. The mountain is 273 ft above sea level at its highest point which can be reached upon climbing 417 steps.

Rockfort, Thayumanavar Temple and Ucchi Pillaiyar Kovil

At the foothills is a shrine dedicated to Manikka Vinayagar. As we slowly make our way up the hillock, we pass by various other shrines and mandapas or halls. Some of the important ones are the Sahasralinga Mandapa\: that literally houses a thousand Lingas, the sixteen pillared hall which once served as a watchtower for the British, and the Hundred Pillared Hall or the Nootrukkaal Mandapam. Every Chithirai month, in a special utsavam known as ChettiPenn Maruthuvam, the miraculous labour of Rathnavathi is celebrated on a marble dais located in the center of the Nootrukkaal Mandapam. Thayumanavar and Rathnavathi are first seated on the dais, which is decked up for the occasion. Drapes are then drawn around them amidst the chanting of hymns praising the motherly-nature of Shiva. Minutes later, the drapes are thrown open to show Rathnavathi with a baby in her arms. Lamps are waved before the Lord and Rathnavathi, as many musical instruments belt out auspicious notes. Thousands come, from near and far, to witness this re-enactment of Shiva’s play, and the Nootrukkaal Mandapam is found to be overflowing with zealous devotees. During this utsavam a special medicine containing dried ginger (Sukku) and Jaggery, is made at the temple, and is distributed as prasadam to the congregated devotees. The medicine is favored by many pregnant women in the surrounding areas, for it is believed to help in an easy and comfortable birth process.

ChettiPenn Maruthuvam

After climbing past several Mandapas, and about 200 steps, we reach the core of the Thayumanavar temple. In the central shrine, Shiva gives darshan as a gigantic Linga, one of the biggest in Tamil Nadu. A fascinating fact is that in this temple, the Dwajastambha (flag-staff) is not in front of the Linga, but behind it. It is believed that the Linga originally faced the Dwajastambha, but when Shiva turned towards Uraiyur to punish the Chozha king for his injustice, the Linga ended up facing the other way. Even today, during poojas, all the instruments are played, and the Thevaram is recited at the back (or is it the front?) of the shrine. The main entrance-way to the temple also faces the back of the shrine. 

In yet another deviation from a standard Shivaalaya, Nandi is prominently missing between the Dwajastambha and the sanctum. In Tiruchi, the hillock itself is considered to be Nandi. Instead of Nandi, there is, however, the sculpture of a short-stout person person blowing into an ornate conch. He is Sanganaathar, the Shivagana who heralds the arrival of Shiva's procession by blowing into the conch. While no Nandi faces the presiding deity in the temple, in a fitting tribute to the huge Linga, an equally gigantic Nandi is housed in a temple at the foot hills. This temple is often referred to as Nandi Kovil by the locals

Thayumanavar is offered formal worship six times everyday, in accordance with the tenets of the Kaameeka Agama.  He is also worshiped by the Sun on the 23^rd, 24^th and 25^th days of Panguni when the sun’s rays shine onto the Linga. The temple also has a small gold-covered vimana right above the Tayumanavar shrine.

Thayumanava Swamy Vimanam

Mattuvarkuzhali is housed in a separate shrine facing west. Facing Her is the shrine of Pathala Iyyannar who resides in a hall under the ground. People usually worship Him before going to worship Devi. A beautiful wooden Mahalakshmi is also housed within the temple precincts. People worship her with milk and lotuses with prayers for wealth and prosperity. She is especially propitiated with SriSukta homa on all Fridays. Muthukkumaraswami is housed in yet another separate shrine, and has been celebrated by Arunagirinathar in his Thiruppugazh

In the Navagraha Mandapa, in a very rare occurrence, all the Navagrahas are shown to be facing Surya, who is seen to be with his wives - Usha and Chaya. In yet another unique occurrence, in the DakshinaMoorthi shrine, in addition to the four Sanakadi Munis usually found at His feet, there are also present Sivayogamamuni, Patanjali, Vyagrapadar, and Thirumoolar. Here Dakshinamoorthi is shown to be seated on a mat of Dharba grass. It is believed that Shiva himself appeared in the form of Dakshinamoorthi to teach the secrets to grammar to the famous Tamil poet Thayumanava Swamy.

Dakshinamoorthi and his eight disciples

The temple also houses the GangalaMoorthi of Shiva, which is one among the 64 Maheshwara Moorthams (forms of Shiva). He is shown to be bearing the fury of Ganga as She descended from the heavens - a very beautiful piece of work indeed. There are also some remarkable pieces of architecture in the temple like chain-links carved in stone and balls that rotate within the mouths of  lions, and so on. Many people also believe that somewhere in the upper reaches of the RockFort are the preserved footprints of Vibheeshana (He was involved with the SriRangam temple as well as the Ucchi Pillayar temple).

An aerial view of the Thayumanavar temple

Expecting mothers, their husbands, and relatives flock to the temple to pray for a safe pregnancy, and the birth of a healthy child. When their wishes are granted, the couples return to the temple and offer whole stalks of bananas to the deity to thank Him for his protection during pregnancy. Just like a banana tree never perishes, and flourishes one generation after the other, the offering of these bananas are symbolic of prayers for an unbroken lineage. Women also worship Thayumanavar with ghee and eat it for 48 days to be blessed with a child. Many devotees also circumambulate the hill on full-moon nights.

The temple follows two codes of worship called the Kaaranam and Kaamekam Aagamaas. The main festival is in Chithirai, which is held for 10 days. On one of the days of the Chithirai Brahmotsavam, the processional icons of Saarama Munivar and Naagakanyas are brought to the central shrine and a grand ritual worship is offered with Sevvanthi flowers, reminiscent of Saarama's initial worship of Trishiranaathar. Apart from this, the city of Tiruchi witnesses a float festival in Panguni (March-April). Mattuvarkuzhali has Her own utsavams during Aadi Pooram and Navaratri. Besides these, the temple also celebrates Mahashivarathri, Makara Sankranthi, and Thirukkarthigai on a grand scale.

The Thayumanavar temple is the 6^th kshetra on the southern banks of the Kaveri to be praised in the Thevaram, and hence it is also a Paadal Petra Thalam. A place worth the visit, it is located bang in the center of Tiruchi and is pretty hard to miss out. A temple where every expecting mother must pray at, seeking a safe delivery, its story beautifully bringing out the tender-hearted nature of the Supreme Being who came running to help an devotee-in-pain, just like any mother would have done.

हे शंकर स्मरहर प्रमतादी नाथ 

मन्नाथ ! शाम्भ ! शशिचूड ! हर ! त्रिशूलिन |

शम्भो ! सुखप्रसवकृत ! भव ! दयालो !

श्री मातृभूत शिव पालयमां नमस्ते ||

"Oh Shankara, I think of you, Oh Primordial One.

My Lord, Shaambha, The wearer of the crescent. Victory to you, bearer of the Trishoola!

Shambho, Bless me with a painless childbirth. Oh gracious one, full of compassion.

I bow to you Shiva, who is also Mathrubhutheshwara. Bless me oh Lord" 

- Shri Govinda Damodhara Swamigal

The Mystery of the Sweating Statue, Thirusikkal

Sounds like some new Hardy-Boys, Nancy-Drew, or Enid Blyton story right? Read on! You cannot be more wrong! 

Undertaking a kshetradana in TamilNadu, especially around the regions of Kumbakonam, Thiruvarur, and Nagapattinam can be exhilirating and daunting at the same time. There are enough temples, stories, rumours, and grandness to fill several volumes. One one such kshetradana, quite recentlly, we ended up at this tiny town called Sikkal. 

SIKKAL. Huh? What a word? Why would any kshetra even be named so? To the Tamizh uninitiated it could mean anything from a dilemma, a problem, a hitch, or a knot, to a complex situation, or to be caught in an unfortunate position. As we walked up the cool and sandy path that leads to the seven-tiered entrance raaja-gopuram, my mind quickly tried to recollect the various details about the kshetra, largely sourced from e-articles and newspaper stories about Sikkal that ineveitably flood the Tamizh media during the months of October-November every year. 

The temple legends take us back to the times of Vashishta. Yes, the very same Maharishi who was at loggerheads with Vishwamitra, and served as the guru to Shri Rama, Lakshmana, Bharata, and Shatrughna Once, when there was a severe drought in Devaloka, Kamadenu, the celestial cow, was forced to eat some meat to satisfy her hunger. Angered by her un-bovine actions, Shiva cursed her to be born as a tiger on earth, where she could eat as much meat as she pleased. Shocked at her mistake, Kamadhenu repented immediately. Easily pleased, as always, Shiva took pity on her and asked to continuously meditate upon Him for several years, at the end of which she would be awarded suitably. Kamadhenu too, obediently headed earthwards, and chose to live in a forest near the present-day location of Sikkal. It was filled with dainty creepers, heavily laden with bunches of delicate jasmine flowers permeating the entire forest with their divine fragrance, thus earning it the name Mallikaaranyam. In the middle of Mallikaaranyam, Kamadhenu shed all the milk from her generous udders, that flowed out to collect into a small pond. Then, turning herself into a tiger she started her long penance.

Ages passed before Vashishta, the kula guru of the Ikshavaku dynasty, passed that way. Attracted by the smell of a thousand jasmines wafting in the air, and the stunningly white milk-pond, he decided to rest and offer his evening prayers at Mallikaaranyam. He gathered the butter floating on the pond, and very lovingly fashioned a Shiva Linga out of it. To this butter Linga he offered his prayers. Since the Lord was caught in the butter of Vashishta’s devotion, the place earned its current day name - Sikkal. Some stories also say that when Vashishta tried to move the butter Linga after his pooja, he was unable to do so. The dilemma faced by the Maharishi, as to whether he was to leave the Linga unattended or try alternate ways to remove it, could also be a reason for the kshetra to be named so. Vasishta's confusion was however cleared when the Lord Himself appeared before him. 

"Your sikkal is understandable Vasishta, but you were an integral part of my plan to relieve Kamadhenu of her curse. May this Linga, that you made from butter, be worshipped by the faithful in the coming ages."

Shri Navaneetheswarar

With the arrival of Vashishta and the appearance of Shiva, Kamadhenu found herself to be relieved of her curse. Out of overflowing gratitude towards the great sage, she chose to remain with Vashishta to provide him with all the requirements for an ascetic life. The Linga that Vasishta installed, which is worshiped as the presiding deity at Sikkal, goes by the name of Navaneetheshwarar or Vennainaathar, both meaning "The Butter Lord". He also goes by the names of Vennaiperuman, Vennaipiraan, and Mallikaaranyeshwarar. To this day, Navaneetheswarar bears the impression of Vashishta’s fingers which were used to model the Linga from soft butter.

Though the temple traces its history back to Muchukunda Chozha (about 200 BC), the present day temple can be dated back to about 1000 CE, because it bears the typical Maadakkovil-style architecture of Kochenga Chozha. A maadakkovil is built in such a manner that the principal shrine is located at an elevation, atop an artificial hill, and is reached by a series of short and small steps that cannot be navigated by an elephant. Essentially, Kochengan is beleived to have built about 70 such temples, due to his intense dislike for elephants that stemmed from his previous birth.

Vennainathar Vimanam - Notice the artificial elevation of a Maadakkovil

What is intriguing, for such an ancient temple, is that when you go upto any local resident in the towns surrounding Sikkal, and ask for directions to the Navaneetheswarar or Vennainaathar temple, all you get in reply are either blank faces, or a very confident "I don't think any temple with that name exists in this vicinity." If you had planned the trip right, you would probably change the question and ask for directions to the Singaaravelavar temple, which is sure to get you a very detailed direction list. 

But why? Why is Singaaravelavar, normally a parivaara devata in most Shiva temples, so famous here, that he overshadow's His father's presence? The answer can be found in the Skanda Purana, one of the 18 puranas of our dharma, which speaks at length about the birth, growth, and prowess of Subrahmanya, the son of Shiva and Parvati. 

Shri Singara Velavar

According to Shri Skaandam (Skanda Purana), Subrahmanya was created by Shiva for the sole purpose of destroying Soorapadma, a demon king who was giving a very hard time to the Devas. Sparks which emanated from the six faces of Shiva - Satyojaatam, Tatpurusham, Vaamadevam, Aghoram, Ishaanam, and the unseen Adhomukham, combined together with the grace of Parvathi, to give rise to Skanda. Born out of six sparks, Skanda had six faces too, earning Him the name Shanmukha (or Shadaanana). Since He is eternally young, He is called Kumara. The Tamizhs lovingly call him as Muruga, Kanda, Kadamba, Aarumugha, and so on. Though much can be said about the childhood leelas of Kumara, we will skip those for brevity's sake.

Fully aware of His birth's purpose and having reached a suitable age, Skanda chose the forests of Mallikaaranyam to meditate upon His parents for sufficient mental and physical strength to overcome Soorapadma. Parvathi was extremely pleased with Her son’s prayers. She appeared before Skanda, created a lance (or Vel) from a part of her shakthi, and presented it to Him along with her heartfelt blessings for His success. Since the lance was given by Shakthi Herself, it is often called ShakthiVel, and the Ambal at Sikkal goes by the name of Velnedunkanni or Shaktyaayadaakshi (She whose eyes are as shapely and sharp as the Vel). 

Ambal as Skanda-Shakthi-Pradaayini (Courtesy Arjun Jagadish)

With the help of the Vel, Skanda easily defeats Soorapadman, but unfortunately, He is afflicted with the Brahmahathi Dosha. Though Sooran was an asura, he was a brahmana by birth and an ardent devotee of Shiva. Killing brahmanas the perpetrators of knowledge, is one of the greatest sins according to the Vedas, and Skanda was no exception to the rule. 

He returned to Mallikaaranyam and once again meditated on His parents, to relieve Him of the Brahmahathi. One day, when Skanda took his perfunctory bath in the holy Ksheera Pushkarini or the milk pond that Kamadhenu had created, he emerged out of the pond, liberated from the Brahmahathi, and shining like a million brilliant suns, all traces of his war wounds gone. True to this, the utsava murti of Murugan at Sikkal goes by the name of Singaaravelavar (the Handsome Vel bearer) and is very beautiful to behold by the shining lights of camphor and twinkling lamps. The moola murti is seen to be seated on a peacock with six faces and is flanked by Valli on one side, and Devasena on the other.

Shri Velnedunkanni Amman (L) and Shri Kolavamana Perumal (R)

The sthala purana also reminisces about the time when MahaVishnu appeared as Vamana to subdue MahaBali Chakravarthy. It is believed that He too had visited Mallikaaranyam and worshipped Vennainaathar to grant Him the required prowess to defeat Mahabali. He still resides in the temple precincts as Kolavamana Perumal and continues to bless the devotees who visit Him. Facing Him is a shrine to Varada Anjaneyar, who appears with folded arms, in eternal sevice to MahaVishnu. 

The temple has been visited by Narada, Vishwamitra Maharishi, Agastya, Kaatyaayanar, Muchukunda Chakravarthi and many others. Arunagirinathar has sung about Sikkal Singaravelavar in his Thiruppugazh as also have the Nayanmars. Hence the Vennainathar shrine too occupies its place on the list of the 274 Paadal Petra Shiva Thalangal.

Though essentially a Shivasthala, Sikkal celebrates its grandest festival during Maha Skanda Sashti in the Tamil month of Aippasi (Mid October-Mid November), eulogizing the victory of Karthikeya over Soorapadman. The festival is celebrated for six days, commemorating the six days of war with Soorapadman. On the fifth day of the festival Skanda receives the ShakthiVel from His mother, Velnedunkanni, amidst much gaiety and colors, to vanquish the Asura. This is celebrated with great gusto as “Vel Vaangum Thiruvizha” and is the highlight of the festival. 

As the priests adorn and decorate Sigaaravelavar, with the choicest of flowers and ornaments, to receive the Vel from His mother, the utsava murti starts sweating profusely, showcasing the tension and the anger of the Lord who cannot wait to vanquish the Asura. This happens every year, to this very day, and defies explanation. The priests continuously wipe the murti’s face with silken handkerchiefs and the sweat is sprinkled on the crowd gathered as Tirtha-Prasada. People throng the streets to witness this miracle, and hope to possibly get a few drops of the Tirtha on themselves. The sweating only subsides when Velavar returns to His sanctum, with the Vel in His possession. 

The utsava murti of Singaaravelavar breaking out into a sweat!

On the sixth day, Sikkal witnesses the spectacle of Soora Samhaaram (The Slaying of Soorapadman). Though it is not as grand and large-scale as is celebrated at Thiruchendur, the slaying of the demon king still drives home the point - ‘Evil, beware! Guha, in all his divinity will protect us’.

The temple also celebrates its Brahmotsavam in the month of Chithirai (Mid-April to Mid-May). Shivaratri utsavam for Vennainaathar, Navaratri for Velnedunkanni, Vaikuntha Ekadasi for Perumal are also elebrates, though none of the are as large as the Aippasi Skanda Sashti Thiruvizha.

Sikkal's Raaja Gopuram

Sikkal is located near Nagapattinam in Tamil Nadu and is about six kilometers away from the sea shore. The shrine is a major pilgrimage center for people who find themselves in difficult situations (Sikkal) in their life. The temple tank, Ksheera Pushkarini, is praised as being able to deliver a person from the worst of sins and make him a new man all over again. Every full moon and new moon day sees Vennainathar being adorned with pure butter at Ucchikaala Pooja (Noon Worship), with prayers for everyone's difficulties to melt away like butter.  The temple is also famous for its Shatru-Samhaara pooja in which one prays for deliverance from one’s enemies. The Devas are believed to have performed Shatru Samhaara Trisathi Archana (worshipping with 300 potent names) to Skanda, requesting Him to deliver them from the terror of Soorapadman. Now, while we may not be able to visit Sikkal often, every one of us needs to perform the Trisathi Archana in our very hearts, asking Singaaravelavar to deliver us from the worst of enemies – Kama (Lust), Krodha (Anger), Lobha (Greed), Moha (Attachment) and Ahankara (Ego). மேவிய வடிவுறும் வேலவா போற்றி! தேவர்கள் சேனா பதியே போற்றி! குறமகள் மனமகிழ் கோவே போற்றி! திறமிகு திவ்விய தேகா போற்றி! இடும்பா யுதனே, இடும்பா போற்றி! கட்மபா போற்றி கந்தா போற்றி! வெட்சி புனையும் வேளே போற்றி! உயர்கிய கனக சபைக்கும் ஓர் போற்றி! மயில் நடம் இடுவோய் மலரடி சரணம்; சரணம் சரணம் சரஹண பவஓம், சரணம் சரணம் சண்முகா சரணம் சரணம் சரணம் சண்முகா சரணம் "Oh one with the loving form, Praise be to thee. Oh Lord, the General of the Devas, Praise be to Thee! Oh Lord, who captivated Valli, Praise be to Thee! He whose form is strong and dazzling, Praise be to Thee! He who conquered Idumba, Praise be to Thee! He who wears the Kadamba flowers and is known as Kandha, Praise be to Thee!  Oh Lord of the Vel, who is garlanded with Vedchi flowers, Praise be to Thee! Oh Lord, the King of the Mountains, Praise be to Thee! I surrender at the Lotus Feet of the Lord who rides the Peacock. I surrender to Thee Lord Saravanabava . I surrender to Thee Lord Shanmuga.  I surrender to Thee Lord Shanmuga." - Devaraya Swamigal in Skanda Sashti Kavasam ©kshetradana.blogspot.com, Rights reserved on specific contents

For Every Auspicious Beginning, Thiruvalanchuzhi

वक्रतुंड महाकाय सूर्यकोटि समप्रभ:।
निर्विध्नं कुरु मे देव सर्वकार्येषु सर्वदा॥ 
"O Lord with a curved trunk and a large body, and the brilliance of a million suns, 
I pray to you to remove all the obstacles in every work that I undertake"

Any practicing Hindu would be quite familiar with the ancient tradition of invoking the fan-eared, elephant-faced god, Gajanana, before kick-starting a new task. Wherever we may be from, it has been a passed-on custom to honor Ganesha and ask him to remove the obstacles that may come in the path of our eventual success. From breaking coconuts at the roadside temple before exams to starting off a document with a Pillaiyar Suzhi to the Gana-Homam performed at the temples before the commencement of week-long festivals, the chubby lord is bribed in various ways in exchange for a taste of success. Therefore, in keeping up with the tradition, I offer the first post of kshetradana to the eldest of Shiva's sons, the remover of obstacles, Vigneshwara.

It was the year 2004 and I had very enthusiastically come to Kumbakonam, a town near Thanjavur in Central Tamil Nadu, to take part in the famous Maha Magham festival that the town hosts once every 12 years. As I got crushed and churned and carried away by the humongous sea of humanity milling around me, my heart was doing its own little tap-dance, for every direction I turned in (or rather the crowd made me turn to), I could catch a glimpse of the soaring Gopurams of several temples silhouetted against the rising sun. Kumbeswarar, Sarangapaani, Chakrapaani, Raamaswamy, Naaganathar, Vishwanaathar, Someswarar... the list is virtually endless.

Being this true temple freak (this blog wouldn't have materialized otherwise), I wanted to visit each and every one of them around Kumbakonam, little realising that the figure would have easily run into four digits. One among those billion temples that I had on my to-visit-list was Thiruvalachuzhi.  I remember Babu’s father saying “Dei, Thiruvalanchuzhikku nichayam pongo”. They were my gracious hosts at Kumbakonam and Babu, my friend who has since become family, was the official tour guide. But by a stroke of misfortune I was not able to go there, having given higher priorities to Swamimalai and Patteswaram. And boy, did I regret it. 

Fast-forward 9 years and several more visits to Kumbakonam, and I finally got the chance to visit this kshetra. Situated off a dusty path on the Kumbakonam-Swamimalai main road, the kshetra boasts of an interesting Sthala Purana, and several side-line stories, all woven into a rich grand tale that is so unique to our temples.

Thiruvalanchuzhi Vellai Pillayar

Thiruvalanchuzhi, as the name indicates (thiru-sacred, valanchuzhi-right handed curve), is a holy place where the river Kaveri takes a gentle curve hugging the divine sthala to her bosom. When Kaveri, having been freed from Agastya’s kamandala (water pot), had rushed towards Chozha territories, she flowed around the ancient temple of Jataimudinaathar (He who has dread-locks) in an act of respect towards the Lord, thus giving Thiruvalanchuzhi its name. Adding further glory to the sacred place is an age-old temple dedicated to the leader of Ganas, revered variously as Swetha Vinayagar, Vellai Ganapathi, Nurai Pillaiyar etc. So how did he come here? And why so many names?

It all begins with what is perhaps a very well known incident in the Hindu Puranas - Amrutha-Manthan or the churning of the milk ocean.

Long ago, when Indra was at the peak of his power, Durvasa Maharishi had come to pay him a visit. The blessed sage had come directly from Vaikuntha, bearing with him a gift for Devendra - a garland that was presented to him by  MahaLakshmi. Beholding Indra riding on his Airavatha (Four-tusked white elephant) at the forefront of a grand procession outside Amaravathi, he offered the garland to the king of Devas. Indra, true to his haughty self, just smirked in reply. He carelessly took the garland and placed it on Airavatha’s head. The elephant, just as proud as its owner, was highly irritated with the garland obscuring its vision. With one swift twirl of its trunk, it whisked the garland from its head, dashed it onto the ground, and stamped viciously on it.

Anger shot through Durvasa, who was notorious for both his wrath and the ease with which it could be triggered. With blood-shot eyes he cursed Indra. “Oh foolish King, blinded with pride you have just shown disrespect to Lakshmi herself. May all your prosperity melt away. May your strength decline and may you rot in disrespect.”. With a huff, he departed from Amaravathi, leaving all the Devas to shiver in fear.

Indra, now ashamed of his haughty behavior, and seeing the first signs of the Rishi's curse unfolding before him, rushed along with the Devas to MahaVishnu and pleaded for his help. “Oh Divine Protector,” they cooed, “please show us a way out”. The ever benevolent Vishnu cast his eyes on them and said, “Devendra, it has become a regular pastime of mine to get you out of trouble for your obnoxious behavior. You have but one way left. Churn Ksheerabdi (Milk Ocean) to obtain Amrutha. The intake of this divine nectar will free you from the curse and restore you back to power”. The relieved Devas prostrated before him and took leave of Vaikuntha. 

Back at Amaravathi, the Devas had a round-table conference to chalk out plans for the churning of the milk ocean. Two items were at the top of the shopping-list -  a gigantic churn and a tremendously long rope. After much head-scratching, the Devas decided to use the Meru mountain as the churn. By divine will, Vasuki, the king of snakes, offered himself to act as the rope. Now that all the preparations were done and all the meticulous details worked out, the Devas still couldn’t begin, for all their strength had been sapped out by the Rishi's curse. Even in their dreams they couldn't have been able to handle the thick, slippery Vasuki and the gargantuan Meru.

After prolonged consideration, Indra finally sent out a missive to his step brothers, the Asuras, asking them to join them in this effort, promising them a portion of the Amrutha in return for their help. The Asuras, ever greedy for the nectar and the boon of immortality that was promised to anyone who partook of it, agreed to help out with the churning. On one fine Dwadasi day, the churning began.

The Devas held the tail of Vasuki and the Asuras held the serpent's head. Vasuki had coiled himself around the Meru and had brazed himself up for a really tough time. The churning started out slowly and step-by-step, the momentum increased. As the churning quickened, Ksheerabdi opened up its treasure trove with the emergence of HalaHala from its very depths. HalaHala was one of the deadliest poisons known to all the worlds. These poisonous vapors along with the toxic fumes panted out by a famished Vasuki had catastrophic effects on the churners. Like always, they once again turned towards divine help and by a stroke of good fortune, the Devas got Shiva to drink the HalaHala. The churning then resumed with a renewed zest, but it was not long before the next catastrophe struck. Meru, the gigantic churn, having no support from underneath, slowly began to sink.

Totally stumped, the Devas were just wondering why they were being subject to such untold miseries when a booming laughter pealed across the heavens. “You forgot Me, the Remover of Obstacles. Surely, you should know better!” Realization dawned on Indra and he immediately went in search of Ganesha. The chubby lord had however disappeared from everyone’s sight, leaving Indra to writhe in anguish. Seeing no way out, Indra returned to Ksheerabdi and hurriedly gathered the cream floating on the waves. He fashioned a murti of Gajanana out of the cream and offered his prayers by the shores of the ocean. “Oh Gajamukha, forgive us for not invoking you. Accept our apologies and bless us in our endeavor”. Once again the booming voice echoed from the skies, “I am pleased Devendra. You may now proceed”. The rest of the story is of course well known, with the Devas finally managing to get the Amrutha, and with it their lost strength and power too.

Indra, however, continued to worship the murti of Ganesha, and took it with him when he went on a pilgrimage to absolve himself of the curse of Gauthama Rishi. When Indra had once exhibited his usual immoral conduct towards Gauthama’s wife Ahalya, the furious Rishi had cursed Indra to become a eunuch. Grossly ashamed of his piteous plight, Indra had hidden himself in the stalk of a lotus flower. Finally, Gauthama took pity, and imparted to Indra the knowledge of the Maha Ganapathi Mantra. He then asked Indra to visit various Shiva temples on earth to regain his manhood and respect. Indra too obediently followed his instructions and started on his yatra.

When Indra reached the banks of the Kaveri, he requested a cowherd boy to hold on to the box containing the Cream-Ganesha while he went to offer his prayers at the temple of Kapartheeswarar (Jadaimuinaathar). The boy, who was none other than Shiva, quietly kept the box under the Dwajasthamba (flag staff) and disappeared. On returning back, Indra saw that the murti had firmly attached itself to the ground and refused to budge. Understanding the divine will of the Lord he prostrated in front of the murti. “Who am I to take you around when your desire is to stay here? All I ask of you is one boon. May I be allowed to perform pooja to you every day?” Pleased with Indra's devotion, Gajanana gave his approval and also cured Indra of his curse. Extremely elated with recent happenings, Indra returned back to Amaravathi leaving the cream white murti to be worshiped by generations of devotees in what is now Thiruvalanchuzhi. Since the Ganesha murti as the temple is as white as the cream from which it was fashioned, he is known as Vellai (Tamil - white) Ganapathi and Swetha (Sanskrit - white) Vinayagar. Since He is made from the foam and cream of the  of the milk ocean, he is also known as Nurai (Tamil - foam) Pillaiyar.

Swetha Ganapathi

On entering the temple of Thiruvalanchuzhi, one is immediately welcomed by the Ganesha Shrine located bang in the center. Just outside the main sanctum is a mandapa, or hall, that is made up of unpolished, uncut stones, carelessly fitted together as though it was built in great hurry. Legends tell us of the story of Haridwaran, a king who had once stopped by the temple to offer his worship. Placing a plate full of abhisheka materials in the hands of the priest, the king ordered the priest to perform abhisheka to the murti of Ganesha. “Bathe the Lord in these fragrant powders and anointed waters. Let him be cooled.” The priest was now caught in a dilemma. The temple protocol required that no abhisheka be done to the delicate cream murti, while the king had just ordered for one. Either way he was doomed. Silently invoking Ganesha, he begged for help. In answer to his prayers, a voice reached out from the sanctum, “Oh King, I am made of cream and foam. Would you want me to be dissolved in the fragrant waters that you just gave?” The king, realising the mistake he would have otherwise committed, begged for forgiveness. “Then build a mandapa in front of the sanctum by sunset today to atone for your mistake. May it remind people of the mistakes that they make in life and instigate them to pray for forgiveness”. The king obliged and built the mandapa in the given time period, putting together roughly-hewn stones into an approximate hall. This mandapa stands even today and is called the mannippu (Tamil - apology) mandapam or aparaadha (Sanskrit - apology) mandapa. People who visit the temple meditate in this mandapa and ask Ganesha to forgive their sins and grant them eternal bliss. 

The beautiful pillars of the Gayathri Mandapa

Beyond the aparaadha mandapa is the Gaayathri mandapa, built to signify the 24 alphabets of the Gaayathri mantra. It is a beautiful structure with meticulous details carved in the large stone pillars. Its most wondrous feature is the Karungal Palagani or stone window that is carved with 16 viewing portals through which one can worship Ganesha. The 16 portals are said to signify the 16 names of Gajanana as mentioned in the Ganapathi Shodasa Nama Shloka in the Ganesha Purana.

सुमुखश्चैकदन्तश्च कपिलो गजकर्णक:|
लम्बोदरश्च विकटो विघ्ननाशो गणाधिप:||

धूम्रकेतुर्गणाध्यक्षो भालचंद्रो गजानन:|

वक्रतुंड शूर्पकर्णो हेरम्ब: स्कन्द पूर्वज:||

The Karungal Palagani is a marvelous architectural feat. Records indicate that when the architects of yore signed their contracts, they committed to plan and construct the very best structures of their times, apart from five exceptional pieces of architecture that could never be replicated at all. Along with the Stone carved Veranda (Kodungai) of Aavudayaar Kovil, the Wall of Kadaarankondaan, the Gopuram of Tanjavur Periya Kovil, and the Vavval Otti Mandapam of Thiruveezhimizhalai, the Karungal Palagani of Thiruvalanchizhi remains one of those marvels.

The Vavval otti Mandapam of Thiruveezhimizhalai, The Kodungai of Aavudayaar Kovil, The Gopuram of Thanjavur and the Karungal Palagani of Thiruvalanchuzhi

Walking past the Gaayathri mandapam, we then enter the sanctum. The cream-derived-deity in the sanctum, adored as Vellai Pillayar, Swetha Vinayagar or Nurai Pillayar, is blemishlessly white and is protected very fiercely by silver and gold frames. No abhisheka or flowers are offered to the deity, lest the cream is washed away. All adornments and garlands are offered to the surrounding frames alone. The only offering made to the deity is Pachai-Karpooram (a fine edible form of camphor), which is pulverized (using a temple owned mortar-and-pestle dating back several centuries) and sprinkled over the image on a regular basis. This alone is the main offering by the devotees to the temple.

The utsava murtis are housed in a separate chamber. Ganesha, surprisingly gives darshan as a grihastha with Vani and Kamalambikai as his consorts. They are believed to have been born from the tongue of Brahma and the eye of Vishnu respectively. Interestingly, the trio is flanked by Indra and MahaVishnu, both of whom have their hands folded in prayer. The story of Indra has been seen already, but why is Vishnu here in this meditative pose? Not without reasons of course!

Shankaranarayanar at the entrance

Once, when Shiva and Parvathi were playing dice, MahaVishnu consented to be the judge. At the end, when Parvathi won, Vishnu jokingly declared Shiva to be the winner. Fuming at his unethical behaviour, Parvathi at once cursed her brother to be born as a blind python on earth. Stunned by her harsh curse, Vishnu took birth as a python and meditated on Ganesha for delivering him from the curse. It is believed that when Ganesha returned from his war with Gajamukaasuran, he liberated Vishnu from the curse at Thiruvalanchuzhi. Hence, Vishnu too is seen to be worshiping Gajanana here. On the other hand, utterly perplexed by the relation between Shiva and Vishnu and the unnecessary lie that Vishnu had uttered, Parvathi performed tapas at this kshetra and was blessed a vision of Shankaranarayanar (Shiva with half his body being occupied by Narayana). Since Shiva and Parvathi were reunited at this kshetra, the place is believed to offer relief to couples whose marriage has been a bumpy ride.

Beyond the Ganapathi shrine is the main temple dedicated to Brihadnayaki (Periyanayaki) sametha Kapartheeswarar (Jataimudinaathar). The temple legends celebrate the marriage of Parvathi, the daughter of Yayava munivar, to Shiva. Yayava had obtained Parvathi as his daughter through a boon from Shiva. However, when Parvathi had reached a marriageable age, Yayava had simply refused to let her marry Maheshwara, claiming that he was an ugly ascetic who wore animal skins and rode on a bull. Shiva finally appeared before Yayava, removed the maaya (ignorance) that was clouding his intellect and gave him moksha. Parvathi married Parameshwara amidst much celebrations, thus setting an outstanding example to all womenfolk that the outer appearance of the husband doesn’t matter and one should always be devoted to him regardless of his beauty or the lack of it. [Before the feminist readers decide to have a field-day, it should be noted that our legends are also replete with enough re-tellings of the reverse situation.]

The temple myths also tell us an interesting tale of the time when the thousand-hooded Adisesha came out from the netherworld at Thiruvalanchuzhi. However, the gigantic snake had to drill a large hole to make his way from the netherworld to the earth's surface. So large was the hole that the river Kaveri flowed right into it, up to the very last drop. With the Kaveri gone, the dwellers of the Chozha kingdom struggled on with their everyday lives. There was neither enough water to drink nor was there sufficient moisture in the ground to sustain the crops. Extremely saddened by the plight of his subjects, the Chozha king rushed to the Thiruvalanchuzhi temple and begged the Lord to restore the Kaveri. Deeply touched by the king's love for his subjects, Shiva spoke through an oracle and ordered the king to sacrifice a Rishi at the site of the abyss. Relieved on hearing these words, the king at once traveled to Kottaiyur, where he narrated the entire story to Heyranda Maharishi. Heyranda, the enlightened soul that he was, was only too happy to sacrifice himself for the well-being of a kingdom, and without a second word, he jumped into the deep abyss. At once, the Kaveri bubbled up from the hole again, after which the abyss closed itself without any trance of existence. Even today, Heyranda Maharishi is worshiped at the temple for his selfless sacrifice. It is also believed that Adisesha visits the temple to worship Shiva on every Shivaratri day in the year.

The Shiva temple also houses uniquely positioned Navagrahas, where Surya and Shani are seen to be facing each other as Mitra-Grahas (Friendly Planets). Also of special interest is the shrine dedicated to Ashtabhuja MahaKali, a shrine like no other. Thirugnanasambandhar has sung a beautiful pathigam on the Lord of the temple as well as one on Swetha Vinayagar, thus adding this temple to the list of 274 Paadal Petra Shiva Thalangal. 

There is a custom in vogue amongst the devotees according to which the entire erstwhile Chozha Kingdom is considered to be a Shivaalaya, with the main deity enshrined at Thiruvidaimaruthur Mahalinga Swamy temple. The various other Parivara devathas are worshiped at individual temples around Chozha Desha. In this arrangement, Thiruvalanchuzhi is the Vinayagar shrine in the Shivaalaya and is the first to be visited in the series. In due order, the other shrines are - Swamimalai for Karthikeya, Chidambaram for Nataraja, Aaduthurai for the Navagrahas, Alangudi for Guru, Sirkazhi for Bhairavar, Thiruvavaduthurai for Nandi, Thiruvarur for Somaskandar, and Thiruvaypaadi for Chandikeshwarar.

The most important festival in the temple is of course the Chathurthi Vizha in Aavani, celebrating the birth of the elephant-faced one. Another interesting celebration is the one in which the utsavar of Swaminatha Swami is brought down from Swamimalai. The Valli Kalyanam episode from the Skandha purana is then enacted out with great fervor. In this episode, Ganesha comes as an elephant to scare Valli into marrying his brother Skandha. Also, on one particular day every year (in the month of Aavani again) the temple is closed at mid-day after the priest lays out all the items for worship. It is believed that Indra himself performs the pooja for the day, according to the boon that was granted to him (It should be borne in mind that one year on earth equals a day in Amaravathi). Apart from these utsavas, all Fridays, Tuesdays and Chathurthi Thithis see an increase in the pilgrim count. Sakkara Pongal (sweet rice with lentils) and Modakam (stuffed sweet dumplings) happen to be the predominant naivedyam at the temple. People often make them at home with love and devotion, and carry it to the temple to be offered to the cherubic Ganesha

The temple is located at a distance of eight kilometers from Kumbakonam, enroute to Swamimalai, and is served by a number of private and public buses.  It is a fitting visit for anyone who is looking forward to achieve success in every step that they take. May the Long bellied one (Lambodhara) give us every pleasure in life. and also bless this blog with unhindered publishing

ஐந்து கரத்தனை ஆனை முகத்தனை

இந்தின் இளம்பிறை போலும் எயிற்றனை

நந்தி மகன்தனை ஞான கொழுந்தினை

புந்தியில் வைத்து அடி பணிந்கின்றேனே. - திருமூலர்
"The five limbed one, bestowed with an Elephant visage,
And tusks that are curved and shining like the crescent moon.
The son of Nandi and the embodiment of supreme knowledge,

We emplace your sacred feet in our minds, Bless us" - Thirumoolar

©kshetradana.blogspot.com, Rights reserved on specific contents